THE PROBLEM Acquiring a properly-sized woman's bicycle has tended to be a matter of luck. In most bike shops, the choice for women is limited. It's not long since the industry standard idea of a lady's bike was a gent's bike with a low-slung top tube to allow skirts to be worn, topped off with a wide, sprung saddle. Most women had to make do with the smallest man's frame they could find, combined with ever-shorter handlebar stems and saddles pushed as far forward as the rails allow. Worse still was having to use a male partner's wrongly-sized hand-me-down cycle components. This combination of factors often discouraged women from cycling long distances or at all, as the speedy onset of saddle soreness and numb hands made life unbearable. Though many manufacturers now attempt to address these shortcomings by including a woman's bike in their range, their forte is usually catering to the vast majority of riders who can be shoehorned onto a "stock" machine, because their size/proportions are "normal". THE SOLUTION Understanding the concept that a woman's build is considerably different to a man's of similar height is only the first step. At Roberts Cycles, we are constantly developing models designed to improve comfort and performance for women cyclists. But we don't try to fit you onto a mass-produced bike, based on the "average" woman - we make a bike to fit you. Women are usually proportionately longer-legged than men, with a shorter upper body and arms. This means that special consideration has to be given to the length of the bicycle's top tube and the handlebar height. We not only reduce the reach from the saddle to the handlebar, but also design the frame so that the handlebar position can be at least level with or slightly above saddle height. In this shorter, higher position, the rider's weight is more evenly balanced reducing the pressure on the hands and wrists, while putting more of the rider's weight on the buttocks, which are designed to take it. And by being able to sit more upright, the rider's head doesn't have to be tilted too far back in order to see straight ahead. Though the top tube needs to be short, the finished bicycle should be "long" enough to make sure that the wheel won't bump into the rider's foot in the pedal when pointing forwards at 3 or 9 o'clock, as may happen when making a tight turn at low speeds. This consideration usually determines what size of wheel will work best. The right balance of tube gauges, profiles and diameters is also important so the bike best fulfils its owner's needs. We have some tubes that are designed specially for us so that our smaller bikes perform as well as the larger ones. Touring bikes should be stable and not "whippy" under load, racing bikes should be as light and responsive as possible and the Audax bikes we produce should combine the best of these extremes along with the most comfortable bike ride you can get. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Where possible, 700c wheels (the largest standard diameter) are used to give a greater range of tyre options and lower rolling resistance. Recently, however, manufacturers have expanded their 26" (MTB) tyre range to the point where we have several new models capitalising on the extra comfort and longevity that these wheels can provide. We are able to supply a wide range of crank lengths, a crucial factor in providing a properly fitted bicycle. Correctly-sized cranks prevent discomfort and potentially serious knee problems. We also have an almost infinite range of handlebar and stem combinations. Women usually have narrower shoulders than men, so correctly sized and shaped handlebars at the correct height and reach are essential to prevent an aching neck, wrists and shoulders. SIZING Ideally, each customer is measured at our workshop, but we can send out a body chart, prompting you to get the required measurements. Have a friend take the measurements as accurately as possible - two or three times, to check they don't vary. One of the most important is the inside leg, not to be confused with trouser length. The correct way to measure is to choose a hardback book about a half- to one inch thick. In bare feet, stand with your back flat against a wall with your feet about five or six inches apart, heels to the wall. Hold the book spine upwards between your legs and lift up until there is firm pressure on the crotch. Measure a straight, vertical line from the book's spine to the floor and do this a few times to get a reasonable average.